Pruning yearling hazelnut trees

It’s hard to prune trees. Not difficult – just hard.

I just pruned a couple of ancient apple trees behind my Grandpa’s house last month, and I felt like I butchered them.  So I understand.

But the fact is, when you prune trees you make them stronger.

In the first year or two of life, the most important job your hazelnuts can do is to develop a strong root system and trunk.  Pruning your hazelnut trees down to a single whip in the first year concentrates the tree’s vital energy in the next season.  Rather than putting all of its energy into many growing points, it can focus on sending energy to a fewer number of buds.

In addition to the general concept of pruning trees for health and well-being, hazelnuts need to be shaped diligently for the first 3 to 5 years. Their natural growth pattern is that of an upright bush. Shaping your hazelnuts when they’re young ensures that the structural shape of the tree is established for it’s lifetime.

Don’t be afraid to snip all those little branches off when you plant.  Run your hand down the stem to remove all the buds on the lower 18″ of the tree. In addition, make sure you trim the height down to about 32 inches as soon as you put it in the ground.  This ensures plenty of energy going to a few growing points for a great first year’s growth.

Posted in Hazelnuts, How To, New Tree Care, Orchard Care | Tagged ,

About gravel…

We had a meeting yesterday with a couple of fine gents who had a lot of questions about their new orchard.

The topic of gravel came up.

We chuckled a bit, because gravel is one of those hidden snafoos waiting to be discovered by the novice hazelnut farmer.

In the Willamette Valley, a lot of the good cropland that’s excellent for growing hazelnut orchards is silt and riverland. That means a lot of gravel is mixed in.

Aside from ending up in the harvest box, gravel can be hazardous when mowing. Windows near orchards, passers by or even tractor operators can all be subject to being struck by gravel that has been picked up and rifled by mower teeth.

To minimize gravel damage, first thing’s first: Don’t introduce more!  No gravel driveways close by, or rows in your orchard.  If rock is present, safety goggles and head protection should be used while mowing the orchard floor.

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How to plant a potted hazelnut tree

Today I took a video of Rich planting a new potted hazelnut tree into our orchard.

Some notes:

planting shovel vs construction shovelA planting shovel is thinner and sharper than a standard spade or construction shovel.

Planting shovels also have a flat end rather than a point. Much easier on your workload, and makes a nice flat-bottomed hole.

DO NOT plant the tree any deeper than the pot.  Hazelnut roots are shallow; their main taproot only goes down a couple of feet.

If you plant more than 1 inch deeper than your pot, the next year’s growth will be stunted while the tree grows its roots towards the surface.

DO NOT crunch the soil down with your foot.  It puts stress on the roots and is less effective than tamping with the handle of the shovel.

DO prune your trees every year for the first 5 years to shape them.  The first year of pruning simply means you create a single whip with no branches that’s about 32 inches high.

In the coming years, the tree will produce much more luxurious growth if you take the time for this simple pruning when you plant.

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